Monday 22^nd and Tuesday 23^rd July, 2024

After packing up yesterday we headed into Katherine to get water, dump our tanks and do some more shopping. We used our voucher from Woollies to buy fuel with a discount. We drove to Pine Creek where we stopped for lunch made from some of our shopping choices, good ones actually with cold meat and tiger rolls and salad.

From Pine Creek we went to the last free camping spot before Kakadu, the Harriet Creek Rest Area. The creek was dry and we were able to go for a little walk along the dry creek bed. There were about eight other vans of various kinds staying overnight. We had first of all parked in a shady spot next to the bush, but then found it was an ant highway, with the busy little creatures running actually under the van. It seemed sensible to move away from that spot.

We thought we were at the end of cool mornings, but it was lovely this morning and I put on my oodie and track pants for making tea and setting up the Starlink.

It was still about 40kms to Kakadu and we stopped at the entrance for photos, someone kindly took one of us together in front of the sign. Then we stopped at the ranger station, thinking we might get a map and information, but no one was there though the toilets were open.

We had lunch at the camping area at about 12.00 noon. Stephen thought it would be nice to stay there, but I wanted to move on to a camping area near a billabong. And that is where we are for tonight, at Jim Jim Billabong Camping Area. It’s $6 per night per person and there are drop toilets and no bins. We had bins last night, but no toilets.

We went into another campsite near here that had flushing toilets and even showers, but somehow didn’t like the feel of it. There is a notice warning about crocodiles, but Stephen said the rangers do like to try to keep the salt water crocs out of the local waterholes. Still, swimming is not recommended though there is a boat ramp for people who want to fish.

We kept our distance from the water anyway, no wanting to take chances. It’s been very warm since we arrived at about 3.00 p.m. and is still about 30 degrees C. The breeze has died down, which makes it feel even hotter. We will have a cold dinner of leftover rissoles from last night and salad to save heating up inside.

Stephen came through Kakadu when he did his greyhound trip around Australia all those years ago. I do find it interesting, but not as beautiful as the West MacDonnel Ranges. Hopefully, once we actually get to a manned Visitor Centre we can find out in more about the attractions of the park.

Saturday 20^th and Sunday 21^st July, 2024

On Saturday morning we drove to Katherine. First things first, we had hot drinks and shared a breakfast roll at The Coffee Club. Then it was off to Woollies to get fresh fruit and salad supplies as well as a few other groceries. It was extremely busy and we were just coming off the major internet outage, fortunately our card was accepted.

Katherine has a paid water facility and dump point on the edge of town, both of which were useful. Although the campground we are staying at has drinking water we didn’t want to arrive needing to fill our water tank. The water here at the camp is from the Katherine River and our host swears that it is good to drink.

Our purpose was to visit Katherine Gorge. When Stephen was doing his trip around Australia on Greyhound buses one of the things he did was go on an all day walk in the national park here. As it was a hot day he took a swim, having been told that it’s safe to swim with fresh water crocodiles, and he then decided to swim across the river. A boat came along and he had to hide behind a rock as he was naked, didn’t bring his swimming gear with him.

So, I really wanted to see the gorge for myself. We didn’t go to the actual spot where he swam, but from the reception/café walked to a lookout. It wasn’t very far, but involved a lot of steps. We found it challenging, but worthwhile for the views.

Returning to the café we had cold drinks and shared a hamburger and chips. Then it was back to the Sherwood, then driving back to our campsite to rest. We both felt the effects of the challenging walk, but also pleased that we did it.

We’ve enjoyed being at this campsite, a bit expensive at $40 per night with no power or water to our site. But, our host is friendly and made us feel welcome, and the showers are clean and the water is hot. I’ve had two showers here, a bit unusual for me as I usually much prefer to shower in the van. I’ve also been putting on sunscreen for the first time on this trip. We have a lot of exposure and it feels sensible to take precautions, as well as wearing a hat and long sleeved shirt.

We get some interesting colours here at the campsite as there has had preventative burning off, so we have orange leaves and blackened earth as well as the usual colours you would expect. We’ve just seen a sunset followed by a full moon rising.

Some photos from our gorge walk to the lookout. We didn’t see any crocs.

And some photos from our second evening here.

And us at the lookout.

Friday 19th July, 2024

We’ve had a couple of days of travel where we stop at various locations based on our interests. For example, yesterday we had morning tea at Dunmarra, famous for it’s vanilla slices. We had one to share and it was delicate and lovely. Instead of icing on top it had a dusting of icing sugar and the pastry was fresh. When I thanked the staff afterwards one of the women confessed to being the baker. What a good idea to focus on doing one thing very well!

Then, we went on to the Daily Waters Pub, just to see if it was as interesting as we found it two years ago. Lunch was two ginger ales with beef schnitzels, salad and chips, with a side of live country and western music. The musician/singer was quite good, but we were glad when he took a break. We walked around taking photos before heading to our next overnight rest stop.

Alexander Forrest RA is a standard 24hr rest stop, with flushing toilets (tank water) and a separate water tank with tap. It’s not recommended to drink from these tanks, but you can get water for washing up. We had a nice couple in a big caravan on one side, and a young woman in a red station wagon on the other. I was intrigued at how comfortable she made herself for the evening, having a really nice camping chair, a mat, a single burner gas stove and a lap top holder for using her laptop. She had to dress warmly as nights are still chilly at the moment, it was the first time I’ve seen someone in a oodie (big, soft, shapeless coverall garment with a hood). Apart from me, I’m still using mine though they don’t seem to be in fashion on the journey so far.

We set up the Starlink as there was no phone service and it worked quite well sitting just beside the van at the rear.

Today we stopped for morning tea at the Pink Panther Pub/Roadhouse and shared a large coffee. That meant we could use their toilets and take photos without seeming rude. We also chatted with an Englishman who is circumnavigating Australia on a vintage motorbike. He looked quite dapper and the motorbike was all shiny, so obviously hasn’t given into being a bushman!

Then we went to Mataranka, where we went to a different resort from the one we stayed at last time (that was Bitter Springs). The swimming area was much nicer, like a real swimming pool. We could see the spring where the water originates. There is no thermal heating, the water is just warm because it comes from the depths where there is an enormous aquifer. It would have suited us very well compared to the wild swimming style area at Bitter Springs, but we would have still needed to arm ourselves with pool noodles. There is a little water fall at the end of the swimming area and the water goes on through one river to feed the Roper River.

Then we walked to the spring that feeds the pool.

We found the supermarket less well stocked than last time we were at Mataranka, obviously a few days since the twice weekly truck had been through. The toilet needed emptying, so we got fuel and and icecream before tackling that chore.

Then, just about 14kms up the road to our present overnight spot at Stirling Mill. It’s a dusty place, with a few areas for camping, we managed to get a good spot and have made a little contact with our neighbours who are far enough away for us to feel quite private.

We are surrounded by woodlands and termite mounds. Plus we have a decent phone service, so don’t need to set up the Starlink for tonight.

Wednesday 17^th July, 2024

On Tuesday morning we walked to the waterhole after breakfast. We thought it was a bit more than the official 2kms there, and we had to cross little creeks a couple of times. The warterhole was definitely worth the walk, very peaceful, with a bench to sit on, and some birdlife, including a bird of prey which we haven’t yet identified.

Stephen said that he saw many gannets on the little cliff overlooking the water, but he had to go to some rocks which allowed him a better view than ground level where I took the photo.

One of the staff came out in the little quad bike and spoke with Stephen. He said he wanted to chop down a tree and there was a van parked all by itself, he wondered if it was ours. Stephen didn’t think it was, and told him ours had Sherwood written on it. The man did the round trip again to tell us that it was indeed our van. So, I got to ride back to the caravan park in the quad bike, which I secretly wanted anyway.

I shifted the Sherwood to another area, as directed by the manager, and then went to watch the tree being chopped down. I tried to video it on my phone, but managed to miss the vital moment when it fell. The tree looked interesting, but was actually dead, and possibly dangerous if blown over when the area was full of vans.

I was offered a lift back to the waterhole, but decided to do one last load of washing instead, this time our towels, face flannels and bath mats. I then made a cup of tea and Stephen arrived as it was ready. He checked that we could go back to our original parking space. That’s when it became exciting. We tried a couple of places, but the Sherwood still wasn’t level. As I was driving back across the lawn I managed to drive straight over a reticulation post, with a rather nasty sound.

I had to finish the run, with the awful sound still happening. Fortunately the reticulation was undamaged, it was just the plastic post surrounding it that was toast. I didn’t think to take a photo as I was feeling a bit shattered. Later, the plastic was replaced and all was well.

We settled on a different spot in the park with better sunlight and had a peaceful afternoon and evening.

The reason Stephen came back a bit earlier than I expected was that staff drove the quad bike back to the water hole to pick up the rubbish from the bin and offered him a lift. He went about half way, past the water crossings, and then walked back.

Each day in our section of the park we had different neighbours in different rigs. I noticed that there were a few women travelling on their own, in campers mostly, though there was one younger woman travelling in a car and camping in a swag. She had two dogs with her.

This morning we were packed up and ready just before 10.00 a.m. All of the other campers in our section had left at least half an hour before. It was a good feeling to be on the road again.

We stopped a couple of times at roadhouses: for toilets the first time at Renner Springs, then fuel and a bit of shopping in Eliot. We are camped about 20kms north of Eliot in an unofficial campsite 3kms south of the official 24hr camping place. We’ve read that the official site gets very packed out. This is better, we have a few vans around, but plenty of space to spread out. We have a view of a muddy dam from our back window.

The days have been windy and almost completely cloud free for the past few days. Overnights are very cool and the wind can be make us feel quite chilly. But, by afternoon it’s usually a bit warmer and the wind can drop, though it hasn’t so far.

Some photos from Newcastle Waters Rest Area (South)

Monday 15th July, 2024

I actually booked at Banka Banka in advance. We wanted somewhere to rest for a couple of nights and wash our bedding. We are having cool overnights, and clear, sunny, and windy days, perfect for putting washing on the line. This is our second night here and we’ve booked a third night so that we can do one more load of washing and walk to the local waterhole.

We are not sure if this is a working station or just a tourist park. It is Indigenous run and although it doesn’t look fancy and modern the facilities are very good. We are in an unpowered section, close to toilets, showers, washing machine, dump point and main reception, very handy if you have problems with the washing machine, as we did. It’s a new one and the computer is causing problems.

On Wikicamps there was a complaint about lack of toilet paper, but we haven’t had any problems, perhaps they read the complaint and decided to pick things up.

There is a lookout, which we went to last night, and they have a nightly bar from 5.00 to 7.00 p.m. We did the walk up the hill last night at sunset, but haven’t been to the bar.

Our progress on this journey is still slow, with enjoyable stops like this on the way. We are paying $25.00 per night and there are drinking water taps available though we don’t have a tap of our own. The powered sites are $40 per night. Some of the roadhouses are expensive as well, so this is very good value. In a dry country having access to good water is very important.

Sunday 14th July, 2024

After the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area we stayed at McDowell Stuart Rest Area and are now at Bonney Well Rest Area. Each rest area has it’s pros and cons. Last night was mostly peaceful, with about five of us staying overnight.

By mostly peaceful, as I was bringing the Starlink in for the night a car drove into the rest area and parked near to us. I heard voices, then a woman spoke to me, saying something like ‘excuse me’. Well, you’ve never seen a person scramble into their van that quickly. The Starlink was already inside, but I was bringing in the airer and hi vis jacket we were using to show people where it was on the ground. As protection. The airer usually goes in the front of the car, but it spent the night tucked in the dinette. Even though the people drove away I didn’t feel safe about going outside again in the dark.

Bonney Well Rest Area has lots of bins, all full and overflowing, which detracts a bit from it’s features, a nearby creek with some water in it, a windmill, views all around and the main railway line where we saw the Ghan passing a bit earlier. We have a fairly level spot and good privacy. There are lots of vans here, with some going back away from the paved area towards the railway line, so there is good separation for those who want it.

We’ve seen quirky roadhouses, including one that was abandoned a couple of years ago, camels in a paddock, and stopped to visit the Devil’s Marbels. We camped there in the Winnie and because you now have to pay decided to move on to this free camp.

I’ve booked us into Banka Banka Tourist Park for a couple of nights after passing through Tennant Creek. It had very good reviews when I looked at Wikicamps, then someone posted a critical review a few hours later. But, it seems good value at $25 per night, has all facilities including drinking water, and it will be good to take a pause.

We are only driving about 200kms per day, but it takes us ages. We are now sharing the driving, which is very helpful and reminds me that one of the reasons I like the Sherwood is that the passenger seat is comfortable for me as a short person. Van passenger seats are set too high for me.

Perhaps the journey is not exciting, but we really enjoy it, living in the moment and finding interesting things on the way.

Thursday 11th July, 2024

Yesterday morning we had breakfast at the Standley Chasm café before taking the walk out to the gorge. As I remembered from five years ago, it is a fairly easy walk. There were tour groups going through as well, but fortunately we got to share about 15 minutes of quiet with one other couple and we took photos for each other. There is a still pool at the end which allowed for reflection of the cliff behind which was lit by the sun.

I had a bad moment when I realised that I hadn’t put the SD card back in my camera and had been firing blanks on the walk. The good thing was that I had the card in the backpack, so all was well and I took some photos of the walk on the way back.

Stephen had done the walk the day before, and wanted to try out another trail. He managed to catch up in time for photos at the end of the walk.

When we returned we had a hot drink at the café  before doing our final packing up. I felt very sad as we left, pretty much the way I felt when we left in the Winnie years ago. I’m glad we were able to go back there.

In Alice Springs we went to Coles which is in the centre of town. As theft is a problem there Stephen remained in the car whilst I went to the supermarket. I took so long that Stephen had had lunch by the time I returned. He then took the bags and went to do the rest of the shopping, mainly fresh fruit and veggies.

Part of the reason I was away such a long time was because the layout of the supermarket was very confusing, with yogurt and cheese in the same aisle as the toilet paper, etc. It was a real puzzle to find. But the other reason is that there was a fight outside the store between rival families, with weapons such as spears being brough to the fray. The security staff called the police and closed the shutters at the front of the store. They made sure it was safe before letting us leave. This was reported in the news as part of the reason for the curfew, but in fact happened in the middle of the afternoon. I wasn’t scared and actually didn’t see much before the shutters came down, but I could see that the police had arrived and were trying to arrest someone.

I’m amazed that after hearing so much about Alice Springs being unsafe we were there when something happened. I don’t think anyone was actually hurt, thank goodness. The problem seems to be that families have come to town for Territory Day and stayed for a while, causing problems for the local families.

We checked into a caravan park and had a very busy time. Stephen connected us to water and power, then sorted the shopping. As we have stocked up a bit that was a big task. He had bought himself some new socks, so I organised the washing. The caravan park had a small laundry near to us, but the washing machine didn’t seem to be very good. On the other side of the park they have an excellent laundry with about seven washing machines and four large commercial dryers. There was a change machine which actually worked and they also have washing lines throughout the park. Still, there was a lot of tooing and froing on my part.

In the evening we were able to relax knowing everything was done.

This morning, after packing up, we headed to the Olive Pink Botanical Garden. There is a very nice café and the park is very beautiful, with trees and plants from different regions. We had lunch at the café before heading into town.

I wanted to buy a French Press and by researching online had found a place that might have what I wanted. It turned out to be a very interesting store with lots of different goods, even baby clothes. Of course the baby didn’t want to try the garment on! The woman who owns it has been there for 40 years.

She had quite a variety of bodums some much cheaper than others. I had an Aeropress, but unfortunately when I was cleaning it a few days ago I seem to have thrown away a vital part. So the French Press is to use instead.

The store was in the part of Alice where we lived as children. I enjoyed walking around.. All was quiet and it felt very safe.

By the time we left it was mid afternoon and our destination was here at the Tropic of Capricorn marker, only about 30 kms from town. Having only a short distance to drive meant that we could enjoy being in Alice for a few hours. Again, we felt the tugging of wanting to stay longer. The mild, dry weather is lovely. It was a bit warmer overnight than we have experienced so far. For once there was no dew and the clothes I had left on the airer were pretty much dry by the time we left.

We chatted with our neighbours for a while before leaving the caravan park. They are going to places where we have just been and asked about camping possibilities on the Great Central Road. In turn, they were able to give us some pointers on navigating the booking website for NT national parks. It’s a buggy website with definite quirks.

Tuesday 9^th July, 2024

Yesterday morning we woke to a thick mist. I had hoped to photograph the effects of sunrise on the surrounding hills/mountains and river, but instead have some photos and video of the mist. Still, it was very beautiful and the mist had cleared by the time we were ready to leave.

We went first to Ormiston Gorge for a walk out to the waterhole, then a delicious lunch of vegetarian focaccia sandwiches and hot drinks. This is a particularly popular spot and there were groups of older school children on the walk as well as families taking picnic hampers down to the waterhole. Someone kindly took a photo of Stephen and I together, using my camera, rather than one of our phones.

Our next stop was a hillside free camp with beautiful views. We wanted to get rid of our rubbish before going to Standley Chasm but the bins were full and the area quite messy. We moved on. The next stop was at Ellery Creek Big Hole Campground where we parked in some shade and had a cuppa.

Our final stop on the journey was at Point Howard Lookout, which had besides beautiful views some good camping areas. It is a designated 24hr Rest Area, with tank water (needs boiling) and many bins so we could finally get rid of our rubbish. It was tempting to stay, but being low on drinking water meant that going to a proper camping area seemed a good idea.

We stayed here at Standley Chasm about five years ago in the Winnebago, in one of the powered sites. There is drinking water, toilets, a couple of showers and campers kitchen, as well as a very lovely café. When we were here last time they offered evening meals, but now it closes at about 5.00 p.m.

They also have an overflow area where we stayed overnight. It was fairly good for the Starlink and the Sherwood was the only obstruction recorded. Today we’ve driven back into the main area and found a spot in the car park where we can stay overnight tonight. We had more of a choice this morning than last night when we arrived.

We have internet via 4 bars of 4G, but very slow. I checked the obstructions to see if the Starlink could do better, but the car park has too many obstructions. Still, life is not always just about internet, of course.

This is also a popular tourist spot and gets extremely busy during the day. Fortunately it quietens down at night. Did I mention that it’s school holidays here in the Territory, so kids of all ages are here. We like isolation (no one else came into the overflow area last night, but occasional bustle of serious walkers with large backpacks, walking sticks and large hats as well as families and occasional older persons is nice for a change.

We are still experiencing desert chill, with cold nights and mostly mild temperatures during the day. We are getting very tired from moving each day, and having a two night stay here in Standley Chasm is just what we need. Even though our travel distances are short we fit in little side trips and sight seeing, and often arrive at our destination in the late afternoon.

I would say that the Western MacDonnell Ranges is one of the most beautiful areas I’ve ever seen. I’m very grateful that we have the opportunity to be here, especially as we are getting older. It’s quite something that neither of us have serious health issues that impact our ability to do this, even doing the little two step climb up into our loft bed in the Sherwood.

Monday 8th July, 2024

Tylers Lookout: it got very busy with lots of caravans of people, so we only spent about 20 minutes walking around and taking in the views all around.

Sonder Lookout near Glen Helen Gorge: again very busy with tourists. The Finke River down below is where we are now camping. If you took a photo, not advised as there has been a heavy mist here this morning, you would see us as well. At 8.15 a.m. the mist is lifting somewhat, but we still can’t see distant views.

Finke River Camping: yesterday evening we almost missed the sunset, but managed to get some photos with evening colours. Notice that photo 2 and photo 5 look superficially similar, but 5 shows the last of the pink on the distant hills.

We had an incredible night sky with bright stars right down to the horizon. Unfortunately, there is always one caravanner who has to leave lights on all night, which affected how much we could see. Earlier we watched the moonrise, it is a few days old, and through the binoculars we could see the whole outline of the moon. not visible without them.

Looking at the videos from when we were driving it becomes clear that it is impossible to really convey just incredible the scenary has been on the road. Even photos do not do it justice as you cannot see all of the surroundings which add to the magic.

With the galleries you will need to click on the first photo to enlarge it and then click the arrows to go through.