Travels with the Winnie: Day 87

Penong to Head of Bight

Today has just been a day of travel, arriving here at Head of Bight at about 3.00 p.m. We had a few stops along the way enjoying the green farmland and bush of mallee and smokebush. The Nullabour Roadhouse, just down the road from Head of Bight, likes to paint itself as being very remote, but the bush only stops a few kilometres from here and most people could easily get from Ceduna to here in a day. Anyway, it’s their story.

We have parked here because we want to have another go at visiting the whale watching centre. Stephen rang up this morning and they said they have up to 100 whales in the bay, though they can’t promise us that we will see that many. There is rain forecast tomorrow which could make getting down to the viewing platforms a bit interesting (wet). There was light rain last night at Penong and today has been cloudy with very light rain at times. The temperature is quite mild, however.

We are camped at the place on the road out to the whale watching centre where we camped on our way East. We were the first to arrive, then three other motorhomes came. Later, after this photo was taken, a caravan with a family of two adults and three children arrived. The building in the photo is locked up, there are no facilities here and all vehicles are supposed to be fully self contained. Last time we were here there were people sleeping in a car – perhaps they felt fully self contained!

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Motorhomes at the Head of Bight camping area
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The gate is shut at the moment and doesn’t open until 8.00 a.m.

For tea tonight we enjoyed one of our meals cooked yesterday in the electric pressure cooker, with added mushrooms, bacon and green beans, followed by fresh fruit and chocolate. We are being a bit careful with the water, but I’ve been reading on Wikicamps that we can get access to water ($1.00 for 20 litres) at Nullabour Roadhouse and our plan is to fill up on fuel and water there.

The cloud cover meant that we didn’t get much of a display at sunset.

We have phone/internet access here and have our books to read. We went for a short walk down the road.

Travels with the Winnie: Day 86

Streaky Bay to Penong

It was cloudy this morning at Streaky Bay, so not as difficult to leave as it might have been. We enjoyed the beautiful amenities one more time, I even did another load of washing in the splendid laundry.

We stopped at Ceduna for lunch, shopping and refuelling the Winnie. Ceduna has a very good Foodland store, which is fortunately open on Sundays. We had our lunch on the foreshore. This is a last opportunity to shop at a big supermarket before the gap until we reach Norseman. We decided to buy ingrediants to do a pressure cooker meal, lots of vegetables and chorizo sausages. It has worked out reasonably well, but I put too much water in and it has turned into a soup rather than stew.

It was around 3.00 before we left Ceduna and we aimed for the caravan park at Penong because we would need electricity and internet – it’s Sunday – time to talk with Matthew.

There were wildflowers on the way. We don’t know the name of the flower in the featured image, but it is very interesting in a closeup (taken with my iPhone).

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you know when you are in SA when you see these cuddly litter bins
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We don’t remember this Windmill Museum just opposite the caravan park
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The caravan park also features a windmill.

This caravan park isn’t fancy looking, but the facilities are very clean and two years ago I was amazed by the new front loading washing machines. They look just the same as the ones at our very upmarket Streaky Bay Islands Caravan Park. Well done Penong Caravan Park for putting effort into good facilities.

As it was low season at the beach in Streaky Bay we only paid $30 a night there. It is $27 a night here at Penong. Apart from being able to cook enough food to last for a few nights and talking to Matt on Facetime, we were glad to be able to use our air conditioner on the fan only setting to bring cool air into the van. Rain is threatening, but not happening, and we found it quite oppressive until after sunset when the temperature has gone down quite a lot.

We hope to have a good night’s sleep and make it to Head of Bight for tomorrow night. We can free camp there, then check on whether the whales are running the next morning. Nullabour Roadhouse is fairly close to Head of Bight and I’ve read on Wikicamps that we can fill our water tank there – we have to pay for the water, but it’s not very expensive.

I was using Geowiki  exclusively for the first weeks of our trip, but I find Wikicamps is much better for giving information on where we can free camp and where we can get water. We don’t mind paying for the water – it’s still inexpensive compared with buying water in supermarkets.

Travels with the Winnie: Day 85

Streaky Bay – a day of sunshine

We woke up to sunshine this morning. I switched off the alarm last night and we slept in until 7.00 a.m. It was clearly the right day to have a rest and enjoy our surroundings. We read our books, went for walks and explored our caravan park, wondering at the attention to detail and, basically, how much it must have cost to set it up. There are no solar panels, unfortunately, though the airconditioning provided in the buildings is evaporative, which would save on electricity and probably works well enough in summer here.

There has been major investment in the water management. They have their own desalination system and waste water recycling for reticulating all the new trees and bushes. In a few years the caravan sites will have some shade and privacy, hopefully without interrupting the views to the ocean.

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As well as the five tanks visible in this photo there are several tanks at ground level, which I think must store the waste water
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we found this flower at the beach
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and these ones on our walk earlier in the day
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the Red Capped Wanderer on a late afternoon walk along the beach
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the bay is very protected from the open sea, with small waves

We had pancakes for breakfast this morning, our usual cheese sandwiches and fruit for lunch, and leftovers for tea with some lovely fresh bread from Ceduna. The Ceduna bakery delivers the bread to the caravan park, whereas the Streaky Bay Bakery doesn’t deliver, so that is why it comes from 100 kms away.

We often use our own bathroom for having washes when we are travelling, but we can’t resist the beautiful facilities here at the park, so have been going out for our showers. The walks to and from are very chilly. Although it was sunny today the overnight temperature was about 6 degrees and I think it got to about 22 degrees during today.

Travels with the Winnie: Day 84

Kimba to Streaky Bay

We arrived at Streaky Bay at about 3.30 p.m. this afternoon. After a bit of time on the foreshore in town we made our way to Streaky Bay Little Islands Caravan Park. We are very impressed. It is well laid out and appears to try to give everyone a view of the ocean. At the moment there are lots of free bays and we chose one away from other vans to maximise our views. All of the facilities are lovely, a beautiful campers kitchen that is like the family room of a house, all of the showers are private ensuite style (shower, toilet, basin) that would look good in any house, and the laundry even has laundry baskets and trolleys. The front loading washing machines are all new.

Of course, we didn’t just come here for the facilities, but to touch base with the ocean again after spending so long inland. We also have fond memories from our trip two years ago when we met up with Eversley. She had gone ahead of us after visiting the Eyre Bird Observatory together and arrived the day before us.

We have only booked for tonight, but may be staying another night as well.

Streaky Bay Hotel (1 of 1)
Where Eversley stayed.
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Foreshore of the town with clouds. The silos are in the background.

The journey here has been through lovely farmland and small towns. A highlight was morning tea at Kyancutta Cafe, where all of the biscuits and cakes were home made. We had our hot drinks and shared a pastie, plus taking some honey crackles with us to have with our lunch.

We had our lunch at the turnoff from the Eyre Highway to Streaky Bay. When we got closer to Streaky Bay we kept expecting to see the ocean over the next rise, and kept getting disappointed until, in the end, it appeared! I had forgotten that Streaky Bay is like other towns in this area with huge grain silos, which dominate everything.

When we arrived here Stephen had a bit of difficulty with connecting to the tap, but it was eventually sorted. During the afternoon clouds had been gathering and there was even some light drizzle. It still seemed threatening to rain when we were in the town, but when we arrived here at CP it turned into a mild and sunny afternoon. Of course this meant the sunset was less scenic because of the lack of clouds.

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sunset at Streaky Bay Little Islands Caravan Park

 

 

Travels with the Winnie: Day 83

Iron Knob to Kimba

For anyone who cares we didn’t come very far today, but the wind was very strong and was forecast to continue for the rest of the day. It wasn’t sensible to keep struggling with it. The featured photo is of the facilities at Iron Kob.

We had a look at our drain pipe this morning, even stuck a couple of things up it, without being able to release the blockage. Stephen made a couple of phone calls and found someone in Kimba willing to look at it. We decided to leave the tap open as we drove so as not to cause a flood when someone was working on the problem.

As usual, we loved the scenery on our drive, and with the wind there were interesting cloudscapes. We went to Ailen’s Cafe for lunch, ordered soup and coffee and chai latte, and realised it wasn’t the right time to be there. The place was swamped with young mums and kids, it was pickup time. They forgot our hot drinks, but we were still able to enjoy the excellent soup. We reminded them about our hot drinks and asked for them to be in takeaway containers.

Our repairman was just around the corner. He and Stephen noted that there was no water dripping from the pipe (we had a light dripping, just no flow). The mechanic said that the first thing he would dry was blowing air up the pipe, so we put plugs in plug holes and clothes over that. We then ran water through all of the outlets and it came through with no problems. We are not sure if travelling with the drain open had dislodged the blockage or whether the compressed air had done the trick. He asked for $20 which we happily paid, and we went out to the recreation reserve where we stayed on our way east to refill with water.

By this time the wind was really fierce, and we decided to stay the night here. We parked near some caravans with the hope of having some protection from the gusts and making sure our fridge was on the leeward. We have had a restful afternoon, mostly staying in the van. There are good toilets here, potable water, and one shower at $1 for 2 minutes. Stephen has already had a shower, but I like to wait until before bed. We saw the cleaners here this afternoon and everything is really clean and fresh.

Of course we have our own toilet, but we mostly use it at night, and don’t do No. 2s in it unless absolutely necessary. We also like to shower in a bit larger bathroom when we can. It’s always nice to know we can fill up on fresh water in the morning and we have a dump point close by.

I’ve requested a couple of nights at Streaky Bay, a slight diversion from our route home. There is a new caravan park on the beach a little out of town (with a courtesy car to town if needed), and it will be a chance to do some washing. We are relieved that our latest water problem has been resolved without affecting our planned return date of about the 28th August.

morning at Iron Knob (1 of 1)
the view is back towards Port Augusta

I’m cooking some chicken mince and veggies which will give us a couple of evening meals.

Travels with the Winnie: Day 82

Peterborough to Iron Knob (or Horrocks Pass Rest Area Revisited)

We had a peaceful night, used lots of water, and filled up the tank this morning. But, what we hope is a minor water problem, when we tried emptying our grey tank today there appears to be a blockage, with only a trickle of water coming out. We tried at different locations, thinking that the blockage might dislodge as we drove along. Our grey water guage has a slight glitch and won’t register until it gets fuller, so we must wait a bit to be able to show a workman that we really have a problem. Possibly a mechanic could fix it, take off the hose and check the outlet for the tank and the hose for blockage.

We bought more fruit and vegetables before leaving Peterborough as we had eaten everything from our cookup.

The scenery on our drive here to Iron Knob has been just lovely. Sometimes through beautiful farmland, with hills in the distance, then going through Horrocks Pass and making a stop where we camped early on our trip, and after Port August, the sweeping landscape and skies on our drive to Iron Knob. It was a difficult drive with strong winds rocking the Winnie, but we didn’t feel tired because it was so inspiring.

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A stop on the way
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Horrocks Pass Rest Area
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Horrocks Pass monument

Unlike our trip two years ago I am finding the journey home enjoyable. Today we reached the place where the road divides – either up to Alice Springs or crossing the Nullabour to Perth. Now were are on familiar territory. But, I think the journey has been long enough, with the time in the outback as the main focus, to leave me feeling pretty satisfied about what has been covered this trip. I’m looking forward to being home and catching up with family and friends. Still, there is a lot to interest us the rest of the way to Perth.

Travels with the Winnie: Day 81

Cockburn to Peterborough

Today has been memorable for interesting scenery as we approached mountain ranges, crossing the border into South Australia from New South Wales and stuffing ourselves with fruit and vegetables at lunchtime because we would be going through a quarantine station late in the day. The station was closed, of course. I was hoping they would somehow know from our faces that we had been eating so much fruit and veg!

We didn’t just eat, I made a vegetable curry soup in our largest saucepan, which used up almost everything. As well as eating some fresh fruit I also cooked apples, pears, mandarin and strawberries in honey. From past experience we assumed that cooked vegetables and fruit would be OK. The good thing about that is that we have plenty left over for our tea tonight. Just need to add protein.

The featured image above shows the sign over the camper’s kitchen at Cockburn. We did indeed feel welcome in the tiny village.

Crossing the border from New South Wales to South Australia, as we were leaving Cockburn this morning.

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A house in Cockburn, also showing the flat land around from the slight elevation we were on.
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The Winnie at Cockburn. Other caravans had left.

We really love the wide open spaces we have been driving through. As we got closer to Peterborough we started going through passes in ranges of hills. In front of us are the Flinders Ranges, and we will be going through them on our way to Port Augusta tomorrow.

Something I forgot from the post this morning is that yesterday in Silverton we were able to get our gas bottle filled. Today in Peterborough there was a dump station and potable water tap in town. We refilled our tank and water containers with what we hope will be better tasting water than we had at Broken Hill.

Peterborough is an RV friendly town and we are staying with about four other vans in a free camping spot, fairly close to the train museum we saw two years ago. There are no hookups and no toilets within close walking distance, this site is purely for fully self contained vans, which I guess is what we are. We can’t get TV in our spot, but it is perfectly level and a bit away from the road, so we don’t want to move. We should get good morning sun.

Travels with the Winnie: Day 80

Broken Hill to Cockburn via Silverton

Yesterday morning was one of those times when we needed to get a lot done. We had the tyres checked at Bridgestone in Broken Hill, and were charged $10, the first time we have been charged for getting our tyres checked. Still, it was worth it for the peace of mind, and they checked all of the tyres, including the spare underneath. It is quite difficult for us to do.

We did some shopping and got petrol nearby. Then we drove out to Silverton, a small town with a big reason to be, it has been used in numerous Australian films, including ‘A Town Like Alice’, and most recently in Mad Max II. So, here is our photo of the Silverton Hotel, which has had so many names in films over the years. The barmaid said that there is a new film yet to come out featuring the hotel.

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Silverton Hotel

There were some donkeys hanging around and I’ve used that photo for the featured image.

We drove back along the extremely bumpy bitumen road to Broken Hill, then set off along the Barrier Highway to the little village of Cockburn. The ‘caravan park’ here is fairly informal, but there is power if you want it, flushing toilets and one working hot shower.

We succumbed to the lure of a fireplace and home cooked meals and had our tea at the pub. There we found out some of the history of the place and met the cook, who is about Stephen’s age, but a long term resident and supporter of the community’s wish to keep the village open. It is just over the border in SA, and the government is trying to force people to move to a bigger town by cutting off the water and threatening to cut off the power. Of course, residents could use generators, as they do in a nearby village, but they prefer to keep the campground/caravan park going and have streetlights. Already they have to truck in the water.

We felt quite virtuous about supporting them by having power at our site and the meal and a cider at the pub. The meals were delicious and healthy, though apple crumble is by definition not included in the healthy part.

We had a very good night’s sleep. It was very cold when we got back to the van and we had both heaters (diesel and electric) going for a while until we were toasty warm.

Our site last night doesn’t count as free camping, but at $20 for the night is a lot cheaper than a caravan park.

Time for breakfast.

Travels with the Winnie: Day 79

A day in Broken Hill

Yesterday was a day of art galleries. We started out with the Pro Hart Gallery. Not an artist that I have thought much about, though when reminded of some of his antics (dropping paint powder onto Ayers Rock, putting paint onto carpet and smoothing it out with his belly), I remembered those. But, seeing the artist in context has left a very different impression. His output was prodigious, and when you consider that he was working in the mines from the age of 19 to 40, he must have had incredible energy.

He remained living in Broken Hill and joined a group of other local artists in promoting the local landscape and people. He was a devoted family man (and I think this also swayed me), and when he became famous and had exhibitions and was meeting important people he always took his wife and five kids with him. We watched a video on various documentaries that gave us insight into his life. The gallery is full of his artwork which the family wants to keep. Understanding his work as social and spiritual commentary made a difference to how I viewed it. Although he did not want to be thought of as a landscape artist, the landscape elements of his paintings also appeal to me.

Our next stop was back in town.  We parked the Winnie near to the Cinema, had lunch at the ‘Silly Goat’ cafe, then walked to the gallery housing ‘The Big Picture” by another local artist, Peter Anderson. It is a huge diorama style painting in bright colours of all the local area in the round. Quite breathtaking. There was quite a lot of other artwork on sale in the gallery.

Stephen was then ready for a third gallery, but I chose to have a rest in the van.

At about 5.00 p.m. we went to the Cinema to see ‘Dunkirk’. We wanted to see the film on the big screen, and thought it would probably be off by the time we get back to Perth. It was definitely worth seeing, although I am not sure we saw it in its full glory of 77mm. They had downloaded it via satellite. There were quite a few other people there, so I hope they were able to make a profit.

I only took a few photos today. The town has attractive old style buildings, and some newer public buildings with a great deal of style, and ‘next time’ it would be worthwhile to walk around town capturing these elements. There are a lot of older style homes as well, including many corrugated iron houses that people still live in.

BH Towers (1 of 1)
towers
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example of older building style, fairly typical of buildings in Austalian towns and cities

Today we are leaving this caravan park, but not leaving the area as we want to explore Silverton and also see some outdoor sculptures which are out of town.